Tools Explained

*DRILL PRESS:* A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.

*WIRE WHEEL:* Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light . Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, ‘Oh shit!”

*SKIL SAW:* A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.

*PLIERS:* Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.

*BELT SANDER:* An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.

*HACKSAW:* One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle… It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.

*VISE-GRIPS:* Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

*OXYACETYLENE TORCH:* Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing.

*TABLE SAW:* A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.

*HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK:* Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.

*BAND SAW:* A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.

*TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST:* A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.

*PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER:* Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.

*STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER:* A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms.

*PRY BAR:* A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

*HOSE CUTTER:* A tool used to make hoses too short.

*HAMMER:* Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit. It is especially valuable at being able to find the EXACT location of the thumb or index finger of the other hand.

*UTILITY KNIFE:* Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.

*SON-OF-A-BITCH TOOL:* (A personal favorite!) Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling ‘Son of a BITCH!’ at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.

I hope you found this informative.

*THINK SAFETY*

12 thoughts on “Tools Explained

  1. I am still laughing and wiping the tears out of my eyes as i have experienced all of these tools and their uses. Good one paul.

  2. Tools explained?
    I think what’s being explained here is why we have “white-collar workers”.

    And a correction:
    *PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER:* = milk of magnesia and vodka

  3. LOL. It left out saws-all.

    SAWS-ALL: A tool used to cut through just about anything, including things you hadn’t intended on cutting but accidentally cut anyways when you were trying to cut something else.

  4. Ever since I was a kid and learned to use some of these tools I refuse to touch them for the reasons named above and more. Prefer to do things the “Roy Underhill” way.

  5. Most important?

    Before commencing ANY job, start by skinning your knuckles or cutting yourself, and just get it out of the way so you can then work uninterrupted…..
    .

  6. yep, and if you cant fix it then break it some more.. or. if at first you do not succeed then get a hammer. if you still do not succeed then get a torch. if you still do not succeed then go and read the instructions that you tossed out because your too ignorant to realize you not that smart..

    but i know this is meant as a joke, and i would laugh if i had not witnessed most of this over the years by monkeys with tools.. the first clue as to something bad is about to happen and the individual does not have a clue is the open can of beer.. we drink after we work, not during or b4..

    if you got good tools and common sense then you don’t do any of the aforementioned screwups.. like if i see someone using vice grips on a bolt around my shop they get a 1/2-13 nut thrown at their head. the same if i see them using pliers or a pipe wrench on a bolt. get a dam open end or boxed end..

    and get a C-Clamp for the drill press or get a drill press vice to hold the part your drilling. i have seen too many hands cut to the bone and fingers broken from morons who think they got more strength than the item that is cutting steel with the 2hp motor..

    i do a lot of lathe an mill work. an open can of beer is a trip to the hospital, and stupidity is a trip to the morgue around this stuff..in the very least you’ll lose some parts of your anatomy if you mess up..

  7. Paul, its funny you post this, I just finished building a 4 x 8 enclosed trailer and the good thing was most all the material was free! I used all these tools with a total of 3 cuts over the 3 months to build, not bad!

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